Montauk is a hamlet that really slows down and clears out at summer's end. Funny, though, Dave's Grill on West Lake Drive still packs them in. That would be Dave Marcley and his wife, Julie. Naturally, fresh fish is a drawing card, but so too are the pork chops. "It's an extraordinary dish," Julie said. "Dave has this recipe, but he won't tell anyone what it is. I know he uses rum, though!"
Also recommended: Cioppino, an Italian shellfish stew with lobster, clams, calamari, mussels, shrimps, and scallops floating in a spicy tomato and fish stock-based sauce. Dave's offers a dessert that has become part of Montauk folklore -- the "chocolate bag" consisting of Belgian chocolate, ice cream, raspberry sauce, and whipped cream. Bring a larger belt along, or wear something with an elastic waistband.
Dave's will be open Thursdays through Sundays come September. Incidentally, in addition to celebrity types like Dick Cavett, sharp eyes might notice another trend -- the tables are dotted with chefs and other restaurant owners. "I think they come here to get away," Julie said -- or to steal recipes. Incidentally, Julie Marcley becomes Julie Sheldon, a first rate jazz singer, when the wind., get cooler. Look for her trio at Dave's on Thursday nights.
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